Walk With Me – How to Lead Train a Puppy

Most of the time, dogs go for walks on leads. Simple, right? Except for one not-so-minor detail: you have to teach them how to do it. Though it may seem instinctual for some dogs, walking on a lead is a learned skill that usually takes some serious patience. You’ll want to start early because a bouncy puppy who pulls, chews or jumps on strangers might be cute, but an unruly adult dog (yes, even the little ones) is a lot less charming. 

We asked Lauren Novack, an Associate Certified Dog Behavior Consultant (ACDBC) and Professional Animal Trainer (KPA-CTP) operating in New York City how to prevent yourself from becoming that person being walked by their dog, not the other way around. Here, see her tips on how to get your puppy to walk calmly on the lead and learn what gear you’ll need for success.

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The basics of teaching a puppy to walk on a lead

If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all the to-dos of training a puppy, here’s the good news, “Puppyhood is an excellent opportunity for lead training since puppies tend to follow their owners around pretty closely already,” says Lauren. “You can start as soon as you bring them home.” Lead training, by definition, just means teaching your dog to walk by your side on a lead and check in with you before sniffing out anything else in the environment. (That means no pulling or yanking).

The main struggle with teaching your pup to walk on the lead is that you’ll be competing with a big, interesting world – filled with squirrels, discarded fried chicken and... more squirrels – for your pet’s attention. “Keep training sessions short and remember to break for playtime,” says Lauren. “Think: two-minute bursts of lead training, break for some play, then repeat for 15 minutes total.” 

Wondering how long this whole process is gonna take? “Puppies are really easy and can probably be fully lead-trained in a month,” says Lauren, but also cautions to be wary of the ‘teenage’ phase that dogs go through at around nine months old. “When they hit adolescence, they’re going to pretend they’ve never learnt anything. Be ready to reinforce training and deal with some boundary pushing from your pup.”

What you’ll need to lead train your dog

1. A harness over a collar

“Whilst you can train a dog with just a collar, a harness is safer on a dog’s neck – especially when they’re growing puppies,” recommends Lauren. If you ever notice your dog coughing while pulling on the lead, it’s a good idea to switch to a harness. However, if your dog is easily distracted, a collar or head halti can correct that by adding pressure and turning their head toward you when you need them to focus.

2. 120–150cm lead

A 120–150cm straight lead will give you the most control over your dog. “A retractable lead can teach your dog to pull,” says Lauren. And when they pull, they go wherever they want (not where you want). Retractable leads can also be very dangerous as a dog could dart out into traffic before you have a chance to reel them in.  

3. Treats – small ones

“People give dogs treats that are way too big,” says Lauren. “Treats should be the size of a pea.” You can even use kibble if your dog is excited by it and essentially feed them their dinner throughout a training session without any additional calories. The point is: you don’t want them to have to stop to chew and delay the lesson.

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The top three steps to lead train your puppy

1. Start somewhere safe (and off-lead if possible)

In the ultimate irony, Lauren recommends beginning lead training by letting your puppy off-lead. “You don’t actually need a lead to teach your dog to pay attention to you and to walk by your side,” she says. Mind-blowing, we know. “The lead should be thought of more like a seatbelt than a primary tool – it’s there to keep your dog safe if an overwhelming stimulus makes them want to chase after it or run into traffic. Basically, the lead shouldn’t be the reason why your dog is by your side.”

But wait – don’t let your pup off-lead just anywhere. Pick a location either indoors or in a fenced-in garden (never anywhere unfenced – and no, invisible fences don’t count) where distractions are minimal. Now it’s time to teach them to walk next to you sans lead.

2. Teach your puppy to stay right by your side

You do this by training your dog to think that next to your leg is the best place to be. Lauren advises ‘building value’ at that sweet spot by holding a treat there – right where your pup would be when you’re walking them. Without reaching out or prompting your puppy by touching your leg, let them come to the side of your leg to take it. Once you’ve mastered that, slowly take steps forwards, treating your pet continuously as you walk, again making sure you’re doling out the treats right at your leg.

Once they comprehend that being by your side equals treats, stop holding the treat there the whole time. Instead, take a step forwards and wait for your pup to follow suit before treating them. You can then take more and more steps forwards – two, 10 and so on – before they get a treat. At some point in the process, layer in a lead so you can take them outside, challenging your pup to stay focused when there are distractions (read: squirrels) around.

3. Relax the lead and let the real world be their reward

Once you’ve got your pup sticking by your side without a steady flow of treats, it’s time to literally loosen the reins. You might come up with a verbal cue to let your dog know it’s OK to explore. Say there’s a pee spot they love to sniff – if they’re loosely by your side and look up to check in with you, you can say, “OK, go sniff,” and they’ll know they have the green light to leave your side.

Just be sure not to start moving where they pull you. “What you want them to learn is that the fastest, easiest way to get what they want is by staying loosely by your side,” says Lauren. “Pulling shouldn’t get them anywhere.” 

Lead training in different locations and seasons

Some other factors to consider when lead training your puppy are location and season. While “lead training a dog uses the same basic tools wherever you are, people in the city often have to be way more on top of their training,” says Lauren, “In a city as big as New York City, for example, a simple pee break could involve an untold number of distractions. Meanwhile, if you have a garden in the suburbs, your dog may go on fewer walks and a less-than-perfect heel is no big deal.

“It’s important for dogs to be acclimated to all weather conditions,” adds Lauren. “But if you live where there are extreme weather conditions for much of the year, a few extra pieces of gear may help.” A coat can help keep your dog warm in frigid temperatures, for example, She also recommends treat tubes – squeeze tubes in flavours like liver and (dog safe!) peanut butter – which are easier to use when you’re wearing gloves.